MALI October 2003 |
Right after my contract in Sierra Leone ended, I decided to take a break. Mali was the first place that came to mind. It was close by and I could buy lots of nic-nacs. Plus, I had already been there in March 1999 with Katie and Ben. It was going to be a good place to chill out especially since I knew what to expect. It was just a matter of going and doing what I like to do, hike. (Besides this time I wasn't going to be spit on by upset train passengers....... How was it our fault that Ben had to pull the emergency break line as Katie and I were chasing the train by taxi down a sandy cart path because the police wanted to chat a little Pulaar with the Toubabs before stamping our passports......Anyways, coming from Sierra Leone this time, the train wasn't even on the itenerary.) My plan this time was to go to Dogon Country hike, sleep under the stars and reflect over the past few years. Mali is great it has a lot of culture from music, to art, to fabric. Coming from Sierra Leone I forgot that people laugh a lot. That even though life is hard you have family and friends you can rely on. It is through that laughter and that bond that you get such rich pieces of art. If you want nic-nacs come to Mali. The best place I found for African stuff was at the Artisanal Village in Bamako. You have to bargain hard though. The starting prices are really high but it is all in good humor. Then hit the market for fabrics. I have never seen so many nice patterns and colors. Beautiful stuff. |
If you're interested in going to Dogon Country in Mali (I know a couple of you are) this is what I did to get around. I flew in to Bamako (I spent 4 nights total.......in and out). Bamako was OK. There wasn't too much to do but it was where I got most of my nic nacs and changed money. I thought the place I stayed, "The Djenne", was pretty good. It was small, nicely decorated, and resonalbly priced at 21,000 CFA / night (aprox. $38). As far as food, it was good to be back in Francophone Africa. There was a nice patesserie in the Missera Quartier called "Relax" that had a lovely chocolate mousse and freshly squeezed juice. I also went to the Thai restaurant downtown. It was good especially considering that I was in middle of the Sahel. Getting to Dogon from Bamako ain't easy. (it ain't bad either.....you just need to be patient) The bus trip takes 12 hrs. I would suggest taking leaving early (7 - 8 am). Get your ticket the day before to guarantee a spot. You also want to take Bittar or Bani bus services. (When I went to Dogon I didn't. Instead I ended up leaving Bamako at noon and arriving in Severe at 1 am. At least they brought out the fourno and cooked up some attaya......although rudely, they did not pass any to me........apprentees no respect!) The price was 7,000 CFA + 500-2,000 CFA for bags. Now I set my base from Bamako but my guide in Dogon Country suggested the next time I go through Ougadougou in Burkina Faso. He said that a bus ride from Ouagadougou to Koro, which is in the heart of Dogon Country, is only 6 hours. Plus Peace Corps people I talked to said the guides in Koro are much more chill than the ones you find in Badjigara. |